"I don't tend to have many watches at once, as I usually find a great example of what I am looking for.."

Ethan Newton  //  THE HOROLOGICAL MINUTE
Ethan Newton

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THE HOROLOGICAL MINUTE

INTRODUCING

Ethan Newton

If you know men's fashion, then you know Ethan Newton. Hailing from Australia, Ethan has made Asia his home, working with some of the most prestigious fashion brands and retailers- most recently the Armoury in Hong Kong. Ethan has built a reputation a style icon and trendsetter, having been quoted in and written about in publications ranging from the Wall Street Journal, to the Rake. Every time we meet, there is no doubt in my mind that he's the best dressed man in the room- wether clad in a bespoke Liverano suit, or wearing simple 501s and a t-shirt. He is this week's Horological Minute.

What was your first watch?

There were many, and some serious blunders, but the first real watch was a Franken-project Speedmaster. I bought what I thought was a Mark II many years ago, only to discover a beautiful stepped dial and applied logo 861 Speedmaster, rudely jammed in a Mark II case, with "Mark II" very neatly hand printed on the dial. It became a project to get it back to true, and started an obsession with 60's and 70's Omega that had me in thrall for quite a few years. I acquired all my grail pieces - Flightmaster 910, Mark III Speedmaster, Piepan Constellation - and all got sold when I found vintage Rolex. All but the first, and it now lives on my older brothers wrist in Tasmania. While I am a hard and fast convert to vintage Rolex, I still think the original Speedmaster is one of the greatest watches ever made. It is like a Zippo, a J-100 Buco jacket and a coke bottle all rolled into one. Great design, dictated by function.

What was the last watch you bought?

I don't tend to have many watches at once, as I usually find a great example of what I am looking for - dress, sports, military, tropical, whatever it may be - and just wear it day in and day out. After leaving a project I had spent the last four years on and preparing to start a new chapter in my career, I sold a watch that I still have pangs for - a 16808 Nipple Dial - and with the proceeds bought my 5513. I got it from a friend, and that it came from a guy I respect so fully for his style and aesthetic approach, makes the watch even more valuable. I will never part with it. Not until something else I want comes along, that is...

Do you prefer vintage or modern?

Vintage, without a doubt. I have no qualms or strange superstitions on wearing vintage, and I find vintage pieces so much more characterful that new. New watches, with few exceptions, are too big, too flash, and look stamped out, laser printed, homogenous and boring. Old watches still have the thumbprint of the maker on them somewhere, idiosyncrasies that make them unique. That they have been places I have never visited, have seen times that I can never experience, all the better.

Can you remember your last great meal? Where was it and what did you eat?

I am spoilt in this sense, my not inconsiderable girth testament to it. I was born and raised in Sydney, amongst the many and rich immigrant communities of that city's western suburbs, eating Pho, Zataar and Fujian fried rice. I experienced every imaginable cuisine from a young age, trading my vegemite sandwiches for Banh Mi with school chums, so my gastronomic boundaries were thoroughly shattered. I moved to Tokyo at 20, married an amazingly good cook, and now live in Hong Kong, home to some fantastic cuisine. My usual business travel is to Florence, naples or New York, so the choices I'm offered keep me well and truly obese. Were you to ask the most striking meal of late? Probably Mattozzi Europea in Napoli. It will be remembered as possibly the best meal I have ever eaten that wasn't cooked for me at home. Mozarella di buffala as big as a fist, great misshapen tomatoes, a simple pizza devoid of cheese, just oil and prosciutto... All accompanied by the proprietor, one of Napoli's most elegant men - Fofo.

Do you remember what watch you were wearing?

It was Napoli. Only a damn fool wears a nice watch in Napoli.

What do you love about vintage Rolex?

I like the pure functionality of vintage Rolex. Exactly what I feel is missing in modern Rolex. A vintage Rolex is either a great tool watch, designed to be worn for a specific function, or a beautiful dress watch that slides neatly below a cuff and tells the time with minimal fuss. They are designed to work, first and foremost.

Strap or bracelet?

Bracelet. I have many great straps, and I have always loved a nicely beaten Nato, but the elegance of a classic riveted or folded steel bracelet is second to none. I have large wrists, which means many smaller dress watches don't work, but the biggest size of a vintage Oyster or Jubilee fits me perfectly, another plus for Rolex.

GMT/EXPLORER/SUB/DAYTONA or........?

While I don't own one, the Explorer I has always struck me. Something about the 3-6-9 dial, the neat elegance of it. I find it a very pleasing watch.

What do you want to see come out from Rolex at the next Basel Fair?

Smaller, thinner, less conspicuous watches. No more logo overload, no more cases so deep that my otherwise heavy hands look diminutive. Rolex can learn from what many great tailors have taught me in my career - softly, softly, don't try so hard to be noticed.

What's on your wrist today?

My Gilt dial GMT. It is usually on my wife's wrist, but taking photos gave me an excuse to slip it back on the Jubilee bracelet, and it looked so damn pretty I had to wear it. It's a mid 60'2 model, with a nicely chewed up pepsi insert. It's a great litmus test for new people I meet - if they think I should have it repaired, we won't get along. if they appreciate how worn it is, we will.

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